IN A COUNTRY that echoes with dire warnings of national obesity, the
concreting over of green and pleasant bits and youngsters hopelessly addicted to
cyber boxing on their Nintendo Wiis, it is perhaps easy for those of us lucky
enough to have downed roots hereabouts to forget that we have at our disposal a
one-size-fits-all answer to each of these issues, one that just so happens to be
one of life’s richest and most rewarding natural gifts.
I am referring, of course, to the Lincolnshire countryside. It offers much to the
fossil-fuelled obsessive, naturally: green-laning and off-roading on four
knobbly tyres; scrambling or mountain-biking on two knobbly tyres; and riding
aloof on four (often knobbly) equine legs.
The problem with these activities, however, is that they cost money and – in the
case of the former two – have a habit of chewing up bridleways and leaving the
acrid smell of internal combustion hanging in the air.
Mountain biking is a better compromise but anyone whose stature is more Charles Hawtrey
than Charles Atlas will, upon being confronted by their first narrow two-step
stile, be basically stuffed. The answer? Well, it’s down there. No, not there,
there: those two sticky outy things attached to the bottom of your legs
via the ankle. Your feet, in other words.Short of the north face of
the Eiger, they will get you pretty much anywhere you want to go out in the
countryside for the price of a pair of stout walking boots. Walking is free. It
is
good for you. And in a blurred, 100 mph world where the proverbial stop and
stare seems destined for extinction, it is a rare and wonderful escape from the
rat race, if only for a few hours.
You can forget, however, all the dubious connotations that often follow
the very idea of walking like a bad smell. Forget, for example, notions of
professional hikers: primary coloured Pac a Mac cagoules; large groups of bobble hatted
fifty somethings converging on fellsides with their big woolly
socks, his ‘n’ hers Craghopper fleeces and perma-cheerful bonhomie.
Think smaller. Think boots, rucksack and shades. Think you, and maybe your other
half. No one else. Think what you are missing, slouched in front of this computer
monitor, when you are probably less than a ten minute walk from The Proper
Outdoors.
Okay, so the sun has left his hat at home and it’s a bit grey and blowy out there.
So what? I would much rather witness the exhilarating spectacle of massive white,
grey and black clouds scudding at breakneck speed across the equally massive
skies with which we are blessed around here, all the while gulping down twin lungs
full of cool, bracing and delicious country air, than stand idly by and
stare, bored (and with not a single hair out of place), at a bland blue sky
interrupted only by a single translucent wisp of white cloud having a motionless
celestial nap.
I have been as guilty as the next (wo)man in this respect, though. Many is the time
I have caught myself gazing longingly out of my office window at home, watching
the cows solemnly hoovering the grass in the field at the bottom of our back
garden, when I should have been tapping away productively at the keyboard like a
good little mouse.
And then, when I have actually had the rare opportunity to get out there and live
the dream, too often I have ended up muttering "Oh, stuff it" and flopping onto
the settee to watch repeats of Top Gear on the telly instead.
Only . . . a day or three back, I finished my daily chores early and
decided, apropos of nothing, that the last thing I needed was another injection
of televisual mental anaesthesia.
In a rare burst of energy, I plucked out a small rucksack, stuffed a few bits
and pieces (compass, pair of binoculars, digital camera, phone, wallet) into it,
stepped into my new boots, shrugged into an old sweater and body warmer, and
with sunglasses cutting down on the glare from the bright, but cloudy sky,
strode down the road and into the village.
The village in question is Morton, and my wife and I have lived here for seven
years. We have tramped its streets hundreds of times and yet never before had I
spotted the discreet but somehow talismanic "Public Footpath" sign I espied on
the High Street on this occasion.
It is just beyond the post-office (heading out towards the A15 from the direction
of Morton Fen) and appears to lead the unwary into the sort of farmyard where a
stentorian "Get Orf Moi Land!" is likely to be your only reward. Only, it isn’t.
Your reward is, in fact, the spectacle of lush, green fields as far as the eye
can see.
Yes, okay, it was a bit muddy underfoot the day I discovered it, and yes it was
the most bracing of bracing breezes that sprinted cheerfully towards me from the
horizon to say hello the second I ventured beyond the comforting shelter of the
nearby barn. My eyes watered. My breath was taken away, returned, and then taken
away again. I was plunged instantly into a bad hair day, and my nose turned into
a dew drop manufacturing plant. But my goodness, I felt alive.
Striding forth, hoping the aches in my calves would evaporate sooner rather than
later (they did), I tackled my first stile with outward nonchalant ease (and
inner mild terror) and then picked my way carefully through the large field
beyond that I shared briefly with two large, disinterested cows and their
numerous manure deposits.
From here, another stile and a brief march along beautifully – and
naturally – manicured rich green grass, now heading west again with 180 degree
big sky majesty stretching in every direction. I feared my countryside adventure
would be halted by the depressingly familiar ribbon of the A15 just ahead, but
then, as I squinted across the road in between the fleeting gaps left by the
low-flying white van men and company repmobiles, I espied another magical
talisman beckoning to me. It, like the first, read: "Public Footpath".
Feeling deliciously adventurous, I answered its silent call.
From here, it was a cautious, slightly intimidated, even, goose step
along a narrow pathway with complicated ivy tendrils underfoot, recently groomed
brambles to the right and serried ranks of back garden fences to the left, and
then out I popped, probably looking comically surprised, into a small secluded
field decorated in one corner by a small children’s playground.
I’ve driven through the western reaches of Morton hundreds of times before, but
I did not even know there was a field here, let alone a playground. I do now.
Onwards towards a massive field beyond (which must be circumnavigated, never
crossed), then over another stile and onto a narrow pathway with another huge
working field (cabbages, I think) to the right, and a typically deep
Lincolnshire dyke to the left. Striding yonder, it seemed like I had the world –
the odd masticating cow and mesmerising Windhover aside – to myself. The views
seemed endless. So did the possibilities.
Venturing back onto the road beyond Hanthorpe, the lane opened out suddenly into
a magnificently open stretch towards Stainfield, those magical talisman signs
seemingly everywhere now, each pointing towards another tempting-looking pathway
spearing boldly out into some lucky land owner’s field, and who knows what
beyond.
I am dying to know what lies at the end of one such path that heads north at an
angle off the Stainfield-Haconby road. The heavily wooded area in the middle
distance is as unfamiliar to me as it is intriguing. It cannot be Bourne Wood,
so what is it, I wonder?
Time to head for home. A brief stroll through Haconby to marvel at its village
church’s wonderful position on the very edge of a vast expanse of seemingly
endless fields and endless skies (it could almost be the edge of the world) to
the south, squint at the nearby headstones, and enjoy the spectacle of two or
three of its wonderfully wonky looking old houses. And then, reluctantly, a
cross field tramp back to Morton.
Standing in the hallway at home, I took stock. There was mud on my boots.
Mud on my jeans. And, I was later to discover, mud, however improbably, on my
nose. My feet were sore. My sweater was sweaty. There appeared to be a bird’s
nest on my head. My socks whiffed a bit. And I could have murdered a cuppa.
As mucky and dishevelled as parts of me were, though, I felt incredibly clean,
washed by the ceaseless winds and single, brief squall I encountered at one
point. I could almost feel the pores in my skin shrivelling in disappointment as
they discovered that the good clean air they had been drinking in eagerly for the
past three hours had been suddenly replaced by dull, centrally heated air. But
their time will come again. And soon. So will mine.
There’s a natural adventure playground out there with endless possibilities and
no entrance fee to pay. Harry Potter himself has nothing on the real world
magical talismans that are out there right now showing those who care to look
the way to the legendary land of hidden Lincolnshire. You just need to know
where to look for them, that’s all.
WRITTEN
3rd FEBRUARY 2008 |