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Irnham is one of England's favourite villages, a fact demonstrated in the summer of 2004 in a survey by the Country Life magazine.

Sir Roy Strong, the author and art historian, was asked to select a candidate from the Midlands and he unequivocally chose Irnham which went into the finals alongside Cerne Abbas in Dorset, Kingham in Oxfordshire, Aldbury in Hertfordshire and Romaldkirk in County Durham. The result was announced in November and Irnham narrowly missed winning the coveted title but was named as runner up to Cerne Abbas.

Charles Leggatt, Irnham resident and churchwarden, was nevertheless, delighted with the outcome. "Irnham is a wonderful village", he said. "What I really love about being here is living in a mediaeval village that has evolved and kept pace with the times without becoming vulgar.  The strong community spirit that exists here is also a key to our success and one outstanding example is our recent church restoration project. The appeal acted as a catalyst for a real reinvigoration of the community spirit. Bell ringing had been dormant in the village for around 30 years and during the course of the restoration programme, one of our newcomers became interested in it and since then, the ancient art has been revived."

SIR ROY EXPLAINS THE REASONS WHY HE CHOSE IRNHAM

Irnham in Lincolnshire comes as something of a surprise. This is a village devoid of hall, shop, school and post office, all desirable assets in what is defined as a thriving village. But are they really so essential to vibrancy, and will they remain so? I wonder.
The inevitable role of the village in the 21st century will be a combination of commuter dormitory, housing for the retired and second homes for the urban affluent, together with a sprinkling of accommodation for those who work locally. The social configuration is overwhelmingly middle-class, and the question therefore to be asked is: can this redefinition of the village create a new form of collective identity which will cherish the past and evolve new forms of togetherness for the future?
In these terms, Irnham is a brilliant success, a village of a kind to dream about, a picturesque vision of a world seemingly gone, yet, in this instance, added to with impeccable taste and revivified in terms of community sprit. The twin icons of the village are the great house and the church. The former has been the seat of the Benton Jones baronets only since 1901, and the old village passed into their hands 20 years later. In the middle ages, Irnham Hall belonged to the Luttrells (now of Dunster) and life both in it and the surrounding terrain is uniquely recorded in the famous Luttrell Psalter. The huge, rambling Tudor mansion lies at the heart of the village, its gardens welcoming to the visitor, and its present owners committed both to the village and to its life. Until seven years ago, Irnham remained an estate village with houses and almshouses in grey stone spreading out from the manor-house gateway towards the church.
Twenty of the 50 houses that make up the village still belong to the Benton Jones family. About 10 others, including the redundant post office, school and teacher's house, are independent additions. Real change came only seven years ago when 20 new houses were built, three of them barn conversions, in natural Lincolnshire limestone on land sold off from the estate. Sad, yes, but this was not a sell-out to ruthless developers; under the aegis of the Benton Jones family, it is an essay in the architectural vernacular of remarkable coherence and sensitivity sited round a new village green. As no corners were cut, the result is an enlarged and enhanced village-scape instead of the usual ruined one. But to achieve that all the properties had to be at the upper end of the market.
As one parish councillor remarked: "Irnham villagers always seem to get what they want." Which brings me to the other icon of village life, the church. And that, reflecting the plight of hundreds across the country, was vulnerable. "Those villagers who don't attend church are still keen to give towards its upkeep." And that, within the next few years, will be the only way they will survive. No less than £250,000 was raised for its restoration, with £50,000 coming by way of village events. The fête held at the bottom of the spacious churchyard yields £1,000 to £1,300 annually. But the raising of the rest owed a great deal to the know-how of a newcomer. The church within is stunning, beautifully lit and heated, a space for a multiplicity of activities. This is as it should be - both a place of worship and a village hall and also a venue for events.
There is a lively village pub, the Griffin, which is the setting for a new annual event, a beer festival, now in its sixth year. This is an example of how villages in the future will prosper and survive, for they are a social and architectural formation for a structure of society which has gone. Like the country house, the village has to adapt itself. In this quest, Irnham deserves a medal.

NOTE: This article was published in Country Life on Thursday 14th October 2004

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