Changing fashion during the 19th century gave ample opportunities for drapers and outfitters to do brisk business in rural areas where there was no access to the well-stocked shops of the larger cities and so there were several outlets even in the smaller towns such as Bourne. 

Those traders who succeeded did so by keeping an eye on changing trends, particularly in London where fashion was dictated, even though this meant regular visits by stagecoach or in later years by rail, to see what was going on by observing people in the street, talking to those employed in the trade and buying samples and stock from the wholesale markets. 

Spring fashions and the London season were phrases well in evidence at that time because April and May were the favoured times to change stock and the capital the place to find guidance on such sartorial matters, the trips being made by the shop owners or a senior employee which enabled them bring back information about changing trends in clothing that could be put to profitable use among their own clientele. 

We have an indication of what was being worn by the more affluent citizens of Bourne during the 1840s because the History of Fashion published by the Victoria and Albert Museum in London shows that during this period the women favoured dresses with low shoulders and waist, bell-shaped skirts and evening dresses were often off the shoulder. Paisley or crochet shawls were fashionable accessories as were linen caps with lace frills for indoor wear, and large bonnets and capes for outdoors. 

The more fashionable men sported low waists with rounded chests and flared frock-coats that gave them the hour-glass figure inspired by Queen Victoria’s consort, Prince Albert. They also wore tight trousers and waistcoats with high collars and neckties.  

Even in a small market town like Bourne there were many occasions when such finery could be worn and apart from private parties and celebrations, grand balls were frequently held at the Town Hall to raise funds for worthy causes while elsewhere there were dances and card assemblies. One venue celebrated for such events was the Six Bells tavern in North Street [now closed and converted into shops] where cards, dancing and mixed-sex socialising was an essential part of the social scene with local musicians playing until the early hours. 

There was then a continual demand for fashionable clothing and to satisfy these requirements locally, Bourne’s outfitters all made the journey to London in April or May to buy from the wholesale markets or even to copy examples and then reproduce them in their own workshops, often by modifying existing garments from ready-made stock.  

By 1843, demand for new and stylish clothing was so great that a trade war had broken out in Bourne for despite having a population of less than 3,400 (1841 census) there was sufficient custom to keep ten drapers and tailors and ten milliners in business with some of their establishments employing several people.  

The leading outlet was a family concern founded by John Todd in the early 19th century but at that time run by his son William Todd and his wife, Jemima, from their adjoining shops on the east side of the market place on the site of the present Lloyds Bank (pictured above) where he was in business as a tailor, draper, hosier and hatter and she as a milliner. 

Mr Todd visited London personally to make careful and extensive purchases in order that he could offer the people of Bourne a large and choice assortment of clothing for the season on terms as liberal as any other shop. “Customers will always find me prepared to make every effort to give satisfaction”, he proclaimed in a trade announcement. “I do not look for large prices but solicit public support on the grounds of diligence, economy and durability.” 

Mrs Todd was equally challenging in her claims to dress the ladies with the latest spring fashions and late in April 1843 while in London choosing her collection she kept potential customers informed through the local newspaper: “In a few days I will be offering for your inspection a choice assortment of fashionable articles in the millinery and fancy trade and hope to be honoured with your continued patronage. Bonnets and ribbons will also be available in great and rich variety, also ladies town-made boots and shoes.” 

Other traders fought back, such as Henry Bettinson who also had a shop in the Market Place and had sent his foreman to London to check on the latest styles. “He has now returned with a variety of stock”, he said, “with cloths of all colours, cashmeres, buck and doeskins, fancy and waterproof tweeds, also ladies’ riding habits, boys’ tunic dresses and liveries all cut on the newest principle. Purchases for cash will mean remarkably low prices.” 

Charles Collins, a tailor and draper, with a shop in West Street, also responded with a little dig at his rivals. “We are in receipt of the most prevalent fashions for the season enabling us compete with any house in the trade”, he said. “My stock contains everything necessary for gentlemen’s apparel at reduced prices. I personally superintend the business and can make economies such as cannot be offered by those who employ a foreman at a large salary.” 

James Hilless, a tailor with a shop in North Street, was also anxious not to miss out, appealing to the nobility, gentry, clergy and inhabitants of Bourne for their patronage and telling them that as the fashions for the present season were soon to be decided, he was about to visit London for the purpose of obtaining the requisite information to enable him execute all orders in the latest styles.  

This intense competition for trade continued for several years and not all of the drapers survived but by 1930 the Todd family were still in business, having moved across the road to another shop in the market place in 1880, although they too were doomed to closure within a few years and the premises are now occupied by a building society.